Buen Camino

Santo Domingo de la Calzada, you came into view just when my feet were about to give up, even though I´d only walked 15km this morning. I´ve found that there are only a few things that the pilgrim has control over on the Camino: footwear, how much they carry, and how far they walk in a day.

I´ve discovered that my hikers are in the mid range - they are light and breathable, but they have very flexible soles and no ankle support, making every rock and stone an obstacle in my path. Thank goodness for my walking poles (a definite asset)! In terms of how much I´m carrying, well, I´m on the heavy side for my body weight. I´m hauling around 10kg in a 55L bag. This is by no means unusual - I´ve even heard there are a couple of people carrying twice that - but I certainly am jealous when those few carrying 40L bags walk by without a care in the world! Although some of those are cheaters, and they´ve sent their real bag ahead to the next albergue! I prefer to know that I can carry my whole life on my back; when my life gets too heavy, I´ll lighten my load accordingly.



As for how far to walk in a day? I would say the footwear and pack weight should be the determining factors (not to mention the number of blisters!). I´ve met people who walk 30 to 40km each day. They must absolutely be flying. I mean, it is perfectly possible to walk that each day, by getting up early or walking later into the afternoon, but it´s dark until almost 8:00am, and it´s hot by 1:00pm. To each his own, certainly. But having said that, I find my best walking hours are between 7:00am and noon. I´ve had a few days starting out in the dark with my headlamp, nothing but the moon for company. The sunrises and solitude are worth the frosty air! I usually walk about 10km before I stop for a rest (except to take layers off or take a sip of water), but my feet are definitely sore already. By kilometre 15, my feet are protesting. I imagine I could walk more if my pack was 3kg lighter...

The farthest I´ve walked in a day has been 23km, and that was the very first day. I´ve had a few other days at 22km, and those were long, but I was so sore after I could hardly walk downstairs for a beer (now that is saying something! haha). I average about 18km a day, depending on where the towns are or if I´ve heard of a good hostel. There was one day I walked only 7km, and I must admit, it was a needed break after 4 days in a row of 20km+. It´s also tempting to try to keep up with friends you´ve met along the way, but I´ve quickly discovered that I feel better at the end of the day if I walk at my own pace rather than being swept up by someone else´s, either faster or slower. There is always a good chance that you will see them later anyway, either at the next cafe sipping cafe con leche or at the hostel at the end of the day. I´ve even met up with a couple of people a few days later when they chose to walk a short day and I walked a long one.

That is one of the most interesting things about the Camino; you start out alone in the morning and stop for a break in a few kilometres, and lo and behold, there are all of your fellow pilgrims just a few kms behind you, ready to greet you again and again with the oh-so-common "Buen Camino". It is a great thing to say if you don´t speak each other´s language. Sometimes it is the only thing you know they´ll understand! But let´s change it up a bit. How about "Happy trails" or "See you soon" or "Don´t walk your socks off"? A lovely Israeli guy I´ve met over and over again uses "Happy thoughts", which I like very much, since it has nothing to do with my sore feet, but everything to do with the reason I´m walking in the first place.

Happy thoughts, everyone.